I tried to put together my usual recommendations to friends visiting from abroad. The list is not exhaustive and is biased towards my own interests, but then again this is exactly what I tend to advise anyway.
Art museums
If you can only visit one art museum it has to be the National Portrait Gallery. Apart from its great collection and a very central location (which is good but isn't what makes it unique), its size is just about right to spend enough time there but still leave without the fear of missing out before you get tired. But most importantly, portrait is inherently a very friendly genre. We humans are hardwired to read faces, so it is easy to connect with the artwork even if you don't know much about its context and artist themselves.
Like most of the major London museums, the NPG is free to visit, but there is also at least one ongoing paid exhibition.
I specifically recommend visiting from mid-summer to mid-autumn when they usually exhibit the annual 'Herbert Smith Freehills Kramer Portrait Awards', among other things it gives you a good idea of what the modern art scene (not to be confused with 'modern art') is like today.
Finally, the restaurant on its top floor is really nice and offers a great view on Trafalgar square (more on the views later).
Other notable mentions:
- Tate Britain (not to be confused with Tate Modern, which tries to be more unique but ends up very bland)
- Royal Academy of Arts - this also a home to Summer Exhibition that is interesting not because it's the best art but because it's 'real' art that you can (theoretically) actually buy. It is a very different vibe to a usual museum exhibition, and they also serve drinks. Tickets are expensive though.
Other museums
It is difficult to make a solid recommendation here as it entirely depends on what your interests are, plus there is always The British Museum. Here are still a few that are worth a visit if what they offer happens to be your passion:
- Wallace Collection - skip the art if you're in a hurry, but go for their medieval armour and weapons.
- London Transport Museum - even if you aren't a transport geek, its shop is the best place to buy London themed souvenirs and small presents.
- RAF Museum London - not really central and you'll have to spend the best part of the day there to properly see everything, but it's worth it if aviation is your thing.
It is easy to tell where you absolutely should NOT go though. That is Madam Tussauds and The Sherlock Holmes Museum (read this, it's like a trip to a sausage factory but for tourist traps).
Theatre
London is really great for theatre, and the only other city in the world that offers a similarly rich experience is New York. Other world cities may have their own gems but frankly don't come close overall. So even if you aren't usually big on theatre, I recommend to find time for that during your trip.
If you don't know where to start, a good rule of thumb is to see a play with someone you know from the big screen cinema. These shows tend to be good, and if even on rare occasions when they are not you can still tick a box of having seen a celebrity on stage. Just search for "London theatre tickets" and see what is on for the time of your trip, scanning for a familiar face.
For example, at the time I'm writing this it is possible to book a ticket to shows with Ewan McGregor & Elizabeth Debicki, Rosamund Pike, Martin Freeman and Brendan Gleeson. Of course the earlier you book the better, but in most theatres you can get an acceptable seat for up to £100. Using a site like SeatPlan to see what the stage looks like from the specific seat you're about to book is highly recommended!
Notable mention: a more adventurous option is going to a 'pub theatre'. A pub theatre is a small venue where stage is above or adjacent to a pub, and it's a very different but special nevertheless experience as well. Tickets are predictably cheaper. Have a look e.g. here and see if anything looks promising. Once again, it's subjective, but the baseline for theatre in London is higher than in most other places, so don't assume this will necessarily be amateurish.
Pubs
This is the part where for the best experience you should embrace being a tourist. If you're visiting from abroad and don't have a lot of experience with British pubs, don't avoid the tourist ones that appear at the top of TripAdvisor listings. There is nothing wrong with preferring architecture, interior and history to the right type of crowd or cheaper drinks that only matter if you're a regular. Absorb the style, there is a reason why the British pub model is replicated (with a varying degree of success) all over the world.
Here are some examples of such pubs, but there are many, many more of them (and if you have already done with the tourist level pubs, then you don't need my advice in the first place):
Don't bother with ordering food there though unless you're really hungry. It isn't always bad, but don't take your chances. Stick to ales as well - you can have a lager or a 'craft beer' when you return from your trip.
Notable mentions: Wetherspoons, the cheapest pub chain in the country is oddly enough known for re-purposing some very grand buildings. Their Hamilton Hall pub is a good example. Go for a £3 pint and its almost surreal combo with the space it's poured in!
Tours and festivals
A bit niche, but if you happen to be interested in architecture (and especially 20th century architecture), check out tours by Open City. They are usually led by actual architects or local historians who really know the subject well. The crowd isn't very random, it's mostly Londoners rather than visitors. The only downside is perhaps that they are sometimes too narrowly focused, and as a visitor to London you might not have a true interest for e.g. "Greater London Council's early vision for social housing".
If you are visiting in September, also check out the Open House festival, also organised by Open City. Started as a weekend event it is now a couple of week during which many buildings and spaced usually closed to the public open their doors, and that includes everything from iconic landmarks (where you have to book your visit in advance) to embassies to industrial estates to schools to people's private flats and houses. It is a great insight into how the city works!
Vantage points
For a great view, book your visit to Sky Garden or a table in one of the Shard restaurants. But your options aren't limited to just that.
- Primrose Hill gets crowded sometimes, but still is a great place to see a sunset.
- Garden Museum has a medieval tower with a great view on the Houses of Parliament (you can climb it for a small fee).
- The Post Building has a free to visit roof space that doesn't require pre-booking, just have a photo ID on you and be ready to sign up in the journal at the reception. This is because they are legally obliged to provide access to the the terrace but aren't actively advertising it.
- The Monument column can also be climbed for a small price.
Do NOT go to London Eye unless you really want to - you don't spend enough time high enough, the queue is enormous and capsules gets really stuffy on a sunny day.
What else?
Depends on what are you interested in - ask me!
Also check out the brilliant IanVisits blog - a great overview of what is happening in London every day.
